Thanksgiving in Portugal

Lisbon → Coimbra → Porto | November 15–27, 2026

Life has thrown me a few curveballs lately.

My October travel plans changed. And changed again. And eventually disappeared altogether.

Then there was April. I had planned another beautiful European adventure, but life changed, and I canceled it. Then, as life sometimes does, it changed again—and it turned out I could have kept those plans after all.

But that's okay.

Things change. Life does what life does. And sometimes the loveliest thing we can do is loosen our grip on what we thought was supposed to happen and become curious about what might happen instead.

And so, Portugal.

On Sunday, November 15, I'll leave Charleston and fly across the Atlantic. I'll arrive in Lisbon at 8:55 the following morning and begin eleven nights of slow travel north through Portugal.

Four nights in Lisbon.

Two nights in Coimbra.

Five nights in Porto.

No frantic itinerary. No attempt to see an entire country in eleven days. No racing from one landmark to another just to say I was there.

I want to be there.

I want to walk. Eat. Learn. Notice. Sit. Wander. Photograph beautiful things. Drink coffee somewhere lovely. Look up at old buildings. Get a little lost. Find my way again.

And perhaps somewhere along the way, remember once again that life doesn't have to go according to plan to be absolutely wonderful.

🇵🇹 LISBON

November 16–20 | Four nights

Home: Altis Avenida

I'll arrive in Lisbon at 8:55 Monday morning.

My room may not be ready—and that's probably a good thing.

I'll leave my suitcase behind, put on my sneakers, and meet Lisbon.

Day One — Just Walk

No timed tickets.

No ambitious sightseeing list after an overnight flight.

Coffee first.

Then perhaps Rossio Square, Baixa and Chiado. I'll wander toward the Tagus, see Praça do Comércio and walk along the water.

At some point, I'll find one of Lisbon's miradouros—a scenic overlook—and get my first proper look at the city's red roofs, tiled façades and hills.

I'm sure the excitement of being in a new city will have me quite energized, and I'll keep walking.

And eventually I'll return to Altis Avenida, step onto my balcony and think:

Well, hello, Portugal.

The Lisbon I Don't Want to Miss

Over the next three days, these are my anchors—not necessarily in this order.

Belém

I want to see the Jerónimos Monastery, Belém Tower, and the Monument to the Discoveries, and walk along the Tagus.

And obviously, there is a certain pastry situation that must be investigated.

Alfama

I want to wander Lisbon's oldest neighborhood without worrying too much about where I'm going.

Narrow lanes.

Laundry hanging overhead.

Tiny squares.

São Jorge Castle.

Lisbon Cathedral.

Beautiful doors and tiles.

And perhaps an evening of Fado—not because it's something tourists are supposed to do, but because music that carries longing, love, and loss seems rather appropriate for a woman who enjoys feeling things deeply.

Tram 28

Yes, it's famous.

Yes, it's touristy.

And yes, I'm riding it anyway.

The Gulbenkian

I love museums, but I don't want to spend this trip inside them all day. The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum feels like the one I'd especially enjoy—beautiful art surrounded by gardens.

And perhaps Sintra...

Only if the weather is lovely and I wake up wanting an adventure.

I refuse to turn Lisbon into a checklist simply because Sintra exists.

If I want another day wandering Lisbon instead, Lisbon wins.

What I Need to Eat in Lisbon

This part of the itinerary may require considerably more dedication.

Pastel de nata

Obviously.

Preferably warm.

Probably more than once.

Research requires replication.

Bacalhau

Portugal supposedly has hundreds of ways to prepare salt cod. Surely I can sample a few.

Grilled sardines or other fresh fish

Simple food often makes me happiest—fish, vegetables, olive oil, beautiful bread.

Portugal understands this.

Polvo

Octopus.

Grilled, roasted, or in a salad.

Perhaps all three.

Yes, please.

Caldo verde

A warm bowl of Portuguese kale and potato soup on a November evening sounds nearly perfect.

Portuguese olive oil, bread and cheese

This barely qualifies as a meal and yet somehow absolutely does.

And because I know my body, I will enjoy Portugal's food thoughtfully. I don't need to eat everything simply because I'm on vacation.

The goal is to feel good enough to enjoy tomorrow, too.

🚆 COIMBRA

November 20–22 | Two nights

Home: Praxis CBR Boutique Hotel

After four nights in Lisbon, I'll board a train and head north to Coimbra.

This is the pause in the middle.

Smaller.

Older.

Quieter.

A university city with more than seven centuries of academic history.

I think I'm going to love it.

Arrival Day

I'll check into Praxis near Largo da Portagem and spend the afternoon exploring the lower city.

Rua Ferreira Borges.

The Mondego River.

Little cafés.

Old churches.

Perhaps Santa Cruz Monastery.

And eventually I'll begin walking uphill.

Because apparently Portugal has decided this trip will double as cardiovascular training.

My Coimbra Day

This is the one thing I will plan ahead.

The University of Coimbra

And especially:

Biblioteca Joanina

A magnificent Baroque library filled with thousands of centuries-old books, gilded shelves and extraordinary history.

This is exactly the kind of place where I know I'll become very quiet.

I'll also see:

• the Royal Palace

• St. Michael's Chapel

• the historic university courtyard

• the Old Cathedral

• perhaps the Botanical Garden if the weather cooperates

And then I'll walk slowly downhill again.

No rush.

Two nights is enough time to feel Coimbra without trying to turn it into something bigger than it is.

What I Need to Eat in Coimbra

Pastéis de Santa Clara

An old convent sweet made with egg yolks and almonds.

This one will likely find its way onto my plate more than once.

Queijo da Serra

Portuguese sheep's milk cheese.

With bread.

Perhaps fruit.

Perfect.

And perhaps one evening I'll simply find a cozy little restaurant, order whatever sounds good and watch Coimbra go by.

🚆 PORTO

November 22–27 | Five nights

Home: PortoBay Flores — Top Floor

Then I'll board another train and continue north.

Porto.

Five nights.

And I deliberately gave myself five.

November might give me sunshine.

It might give me rain.

It will probably give me both.

I don't care.

I'll have time.

My room is on one of the upper floors of PortoBay Flores, right on Rua das Flores. I can already picture opening the curtains in the morning and looking across the rooftops to see what kind of day Porto has decided to give me.

The Porto I Don't Want to Miss

Ribeira

I want to wander the riverfront slowly.

No agenda.

Just Porto's colorful buildings stacked along the Douro, cafés, boats and people going about their lives.

Dom Luís I Bridge

I will absolutely walk across it.

Probably more than once.

And I want to see Porto from the Vila Nova de Gaia side of the river.

São Bento Station

A train station covered in extraordinary blue-and-white azulejo tiles?

Of course I'm going.

Livraria Lello

Yes, it has become extremely popular.

But a spectacular old bookstore is still a spectacular old bookstore.

Clérigos

Church, tower and the surrounding streets.

Bolhão Market

This may be one of my favorite stops.

Food stalls, produce, fish, cheese, flowers and everyday Porto life.

Palácio da Bolsa

For history and those extraordinary interiors.

Igreja do Carmo

Because by this point I suspect I'll be completely obsessed with Portuguese tilework.

One Flexible Adventure Day

I'm deliberately leaving room for Portugal to decide this one.

If the weather is gorgeous:

The Douro Valley

Vineyards, river, hills and beautiful scenery.

Or perhaps:

Aveiro

Canals, Art Nouveau architecture, colorful moliceiro boats and ovos moles.

But I am not booking either simply because I have an empty square on a calendar.

Maybe I'll wake up and want another day in Porto.

That counts too.

What I Need to Eat in Porto

Porto takes eating rather seriously, which should work out nicely.

Fresh fish and seafood

Especially whatever is simply grilled and fresh that day.

Polvo

Again.

I make no apologies.

Bacalhau

Again.

Still conducting research.

Francesinha

Porto's legendary sandwich layered with meat, cheese and sauce.

Also probably not exactly my usual meal.

But, when in Porto...

Broa

Portuguese corn bread.

Portuguese cheeses

Absolutely.

Pastel de nata

At this point I'm conducting a longitudinal study.

Thanksgiving Day in Porto

Thursday, November 26

This may be the day I'm looking forward to most.

There will be no turkey that needs cooking.

No grocery-store chaos.

No American Thanksgiving schedule.

No expectation that the day has to look a certain way.

I'll wake up in Porto.

Perhaps I'll have coffee and walk along the Douro.

Maybe the sun will be shining.

Maybe I'll need my raincoat.

Either way, I'll walk.

I'll find somewhere beautiful for a long lunch.

I'll think about my children and family and my sweet granddaughter.

I'll think about the extraordinary privilege of being healthy enough and strong enough to walk around another country.

I'll think about all the things that didn't go according to plan this year.

And all the beautiful things that happened anyway.

Maybe I'll raise a glass of sparkling water and quietly say:

Thank you.

Not because everything is perfect.

But because life is still happening.

And I am still very much here for it.

Alone, But Not Lonely

Would I love to share Portugal with someone I love?

Of course.

There will probably be moments when I see something breathtaking and instinctively wish someone were standing beside me.

A sunset.

A beautiful meal.

A funny little street.

A view across the Douro.

Human beings are made to share things.

But I've learned something else, too.

Being alone and being lonely are not remotely the same thing.

There is someone I love very much who will be traveling with me.

Me.

I've become pretty good company.

I know what time I like to wake up.

I know when I want coffee.

I know how far I want to walk.

I know when I want silence.

I know when I'd rather have a salad than a fancy dinner.

I know when I want to sit somewhere beautiful for twenty minutes longer because the light is perfect.

And I never have to ask myself:

"Do you mind if we stay a little longer?"

I just stay.

My son has been having his own wonderful European adventure—Switzerland and the South of France, with Saint-Tropez as his latest stop—and I've been happily holding down the fort at his home with his fur baby, Rue, while enjoying the photos and videos from afar.

I'd love for him to come to Portugal with me.

But there's something rather sweet about a mother and son both discovering the world in their own ways.

The Last Morning

My flight leaves Porto at the absurd hour of 5:00 a.m. on Friday, November 27.

So technically there won't be a last morning.

There will be a last middle of the night. I departed Venice at 4:30 a.m. earlier this year, so I know I can do it! 😊 😴

I'll leave Porto while most of the city is sleeping, fly through Amsterdam and eventually make my way home to Charleston.

Probably tired.

Probably carrying something I didn't need to buy.

Definitely carrying photographs.

And hopefully carrying something less tangible too.

A reminder that plans changing isn't necessarily the same thing as plans going wrong.

Sometimes life closes one itinerary and quietly hands us another.

This year, mine happens to lead to Portugal.

And I can't wait to see where it takes me.

🇵🇹 Lisbon → Coimbra → Porto

November 15–27, 2026

Alone, but not lonely.Plans changed. Life didn't stop. So neither did I.

— 🍯 Honey

Enjoy the joy. Enjoy the pain. That is living.